Go to Meishan, find Dongpo taste

Stir -fry a bowl of lard rice, and then remove a long bean or a piece of red -skinned white radish from the Tuotao jar.Take a bite of kimchi and a bite of rice, which is enough to support the deliciousness of He Yanping’s childhood.Like many Meishan people, he was fed by kimchi jar.

Later, the ancestral house Tuotao Tanzi was equipped with Chen Yanyui, which has been taken care of by the three generations after three generations, and continued to be fermented and expanded through the hands of He Yanping.Last year, he was rated as the inheritor of "Dongpo Kimchi" production skills.

At the night of returning home from get off work, He Yanping sometimes likes cooking for a bowl of egg fried rice, accompanied by the cowpea made by himself, and immediately swept away.His stomach has told him more than once that all the mountains and seafood in the world can’t reach the bowl before going to bed.

The Meishan, located in the kingdom of Tianfu, benefited from the continuous nourishment of Dujiangyan, and the gentle impact of the Minjiang and Tsing Yi River. Since ancient times, it has rich production and prosperity.Meishan, even more well -known, it is the hometown of Dongpo.Growing here, Su Dongpo naturally brought his own food, his mouth was not shallow.The taste of the old lady has slowly accumulated since childhood. He once declared in "Old Lao Fu": "The beauty of a cluster is beautiful, so as to raise my old lady."

Food is the most temperature memory.Today, more than nine hundred years later, a group of diners came from the distance, trying to find the nostalgia of Dongpo, the hometown of Dongpo, and the clues set by the diet from the Su Dongpo era.

Later, it was discovered that ingredients such as bamboo shoots, fish, kimchi, pork and other ingredients appeared in Dongpo pen and ink. They passed through for nearly a thousand years and were given traditional and avant -garde interpretation by Meishan people.

On August 22, 2022, in Meishan City, Sichuan Province, in the Chinese Kimchi Museum, Dongpo Family Banquet Views were restored.Beijing News reporter Zheng Xinqiang

"It is better to eat without meat, not to live without bamboo"

"My family Emeiyin is the same state as Zi. Looking at sixty miles, drinking glass rivers together." This is the hometown mentioned in the poem Su Dongpo in the poem "Send Yang Mengrong".

Meishan, located in the southwestern part of Chengdu Plain, has been lying in the fan -shaped area in the middle of the Minjiang River and the lower reaches of Tsing Yi River for thousands of years.Today, the "Emei" mentioned by Su Dongpo -Lao Eshan is still surging in bamboo, full of green and green, and the "Glass River" -The section of the Minjiang River flowing through Meishan, the river is still clear and the water surface is like a mirror.

The old house in the southern section of the southern section of the southern section of Meishan Po is already hung with a plaque of the "San Su Temple".Small shops selling long -eyed crispy, frozen, Ye Erbao, and beef noodles extend from the Sansu Temple to the sideline.Ancient tree repair bamboo and green pond lotus appear in this three -in -four courtyard courtyard.

One day in August of the first year of Shao Sheng, Su Dongpo felt a dream of returning to Saidi.First walk in the vegetable garden, and then go to Nanxuan to sit, "Sit in Nanxuan, hundreds of bamboo repair, thousands of wild birds." Nan Xuan is the father Su Shi, who has died 28 years, named "Laifeng".Essence

Zhu Ying entered the dream, and the old house carried his childhood and teenager of Su Zhe. As long as his childhood memory was, the land never went far.

"It is better to eat without meat, no bamboo." Su Dongpo loves bamboo, and everyone who loves Su Dongpo knows.The bamboo forests in the southwestern mountains are lush, and the people along the Minjiang River have been blowing through bamboo and shooting bamboo shoots for more than 2,500 years.Meishan today’s bamboo forest has an area of more than 1100,000 acres, and Hongya County and Qingshen County are full of bamboo.

Li Dinggang, a bamboo feast chef in Qing Shen County, is no stranger to bamboo.40 years ago, he was born in the shade and humid Renshou Heilongtan Mountains. The most lack of bamboo behind the farmers is bamboo.The Li family has two acres of bamboo forests, full of Cizhu and Bamboo.

After hitting Chunlei, the bamboo shoots fluttered.After peeling the bamboo shoots, the fingers contaminated with the fingers, and the rustling sound of the wind knocked on the bamboo forest can make Li Dinggang suddenly dream.In the summer of childhood, Li Dinggang often got into the bamboo forest to cool down, and his friends caught the bamboo shoots and fried.

On August 24, 2022, Li Dinggang, a bamboo feast chef, was digging bamboo shoots in Qing Shen County, Meishan City, Sichuan Province.Beijing News reporter Zheng Xinqiang

Seeing Li Dinggang’s cutting bamboo shoots is a kind of enjoyment.Hands and swords, flowing through the clouds.The thinner the chilled bamboo shoots are cut, the more the soup is absorbed.

Is the bamboo feast good, look at the quality of bamboo shoots.

Especially raw mixing bitter bamboo shoots.Cut it back, peel it, clean it, cut it into thin slices, sprinkle some hair salt, and eat it.Some locals are addicted to the bitterness of mixed bamboo shoots.

Fresh bamboo shoots used for stir -fry, soak cold water for half a day to a day, and change a few water during the meter.After soaking the bitter smell, simmer the water for about 40 seconds, and then remove the cold water.Li Dinggang, who is chicken essence, MSG, etc., usually does not let go, "Can’t cover the fragrance of the bamboo shoots itself."

The bamboo feast restaurant where Li Dinggang is located is dotted with a cage and a cage in all directions, which can spread to the Chinese bamboo art city next door.In the bamboo forest road in the backyard of the restaurant, he passed by with Cizhu, Cai Bamboo, and Bamboo.

Some foreign diners who come to eat bamboo feasts usually go to the International Bamboo Art Expo Museum not far away.The national non -heritage project "Qingshen Bamboo" in the Qingshen County of Meishan is famous in the world. Among them, the level of flat bamboo editing technology is even known as the ceiling of the world.According to Shao Xiaomei, the director of the International Bamboo Art Expo Hall, the bamboo industry has led to the economic development of Qingshen County, and many local women rely on bamboo to make a living.

"The treasurer knows itself, and it doesn’t talk about it."

"The Yangtze River around Guo Zhiyu is beautiful, and the bamboo is incense in the mountains." In February of the three years of Yuanfeng, Su Dongpo was degraded in Huangzhou due to the Wutai Poetry Case.As soon as he reached the poor town on the north bank of the middle of the Yangtze River, he knew the taste when he saw the river fish, and when he saw the bamboo forest in the mountains, he felt fragrant.

At the moment of life, would he think of the bamboo shoots and fish made by his mother when he was a child?

Each minute of washing, cutting, and stir -frying in the kitchen became the process of self -healing Su Dongpo’s self -healing, and it was also his hot exit of release his nostalgia.

There are many rivers in Sichuan. Meishan people guard the Minjiang River and Qingyi River with water and clear sand. Catfish, carp, catfish, earth phoenix fish, and shellfish and other fish are traveling day after day.

Meishan people love to eat fish, and Su Dongpo is no exception.On the day of Huangzhou, Su Dongpo often boiled fish to eat, and wrote "Boiling Fish" to tell his experience of cooking catfish or carp: "Treatment with fresh catfish or carp, cold water under the cold water as usual, and crickets.In this way, you still enter the muddy shallot white stems, and you must not be stirred. Semi -cooked, a small amount of ginger and radish juice and wine, the three things are equal, mix well.

The seasonings of food cooking food in Su Dongpo are far less rich today.However, in the view of Wang Jinchuan, the non -genetic inheritor of "Su Dongpo Legend", even if some dishes have changed today, it does not affect the root of Dongpo’s taste in Meishan.

For many years, Wang Jinchuan claims to be a good hand of cooking Dongpo fish.Ten years ago, his mother was sick and hospitalized for three months, and he made her three months of Dongpo fish for her.

The ingredients are not restricted in the stump or carp.He prefers a pound of catfish or yellow -spicy diced. After the slaughter was cleaned, he scratched a few knives on the fish, frying both sides with the pot, and then mixed with water without the fish body, under the green onion, ginger, and garlic.The fire turns into a small turn, and the soup is white.

In contrast to "Boiling Fish", white radish juice, wine and citrus peel should also be added.When Wang Jinchuan made it, he saved it, sprinkled salt and pepper before the pan, and dripped a drop of sesame oil into the soup. It was consciously similar to the taste of the year.

Because the ingredients and seasonings of the Northern Song Dynasty are far less rich, what is the cooking of Su Dongpo.In Wang Jinchuan’s view, of course, recalling Dongpo’s taste must also be simplified, respecting the original taste.

As the administrative chef of Meiwangzi, a well -known old -fashioned restaurant in Meishan, Jingfa Jinjin made a fish, and never put the white wine to press the fishy smell."The fishy is mainly depends on the freshness of the fish, and the fresh fish is generally not fishy." The wine will destroy the sweetness of the fish itself.

Furniture and phoenix fish with a strong characteristics of Meishan is one of the hot -selling dishes of this restaurant.Select fresh blue and white earth phoenixes breeding, supplemented by seasoning, ginger, and bean paste.Tufeng fish is delicate and very popular with Meishan people.

On August 26, 2022, Mawangzi Chief Kitchen Gold (left) was in the kitchen in Meishan City, Sichuan Province.Beijing News reporter Wu Pinye

The thirty -two -year chef career has spawned the acute child of "Jingshi".The speed of dishes must be used to win the speed of the pot qi and umami.

Delicious and delicious, especially fish.

In the Mawangzi Kitchen, take the home -to -earth phoenix fish as an example. It takes about 3 minutes to cure the net, and it takes 3 to 4 minutes to fried yellow and fried on both sides of the stove.As soon as it is, the guests from order to eating fish, less than 10 minutes.

"Kitchen Frost Poppy Poppy"

As a Yiya person, Jing Fajin had a half -knowledge of Meishan flavor.

After coming to Meishan to take charge of Malwangzi Kitchen for ten years, Jingfa Jin has become increasingly realized. Meishan flavor is a common taste. Unlike the high -level dishes with a sense of distance, it comes from the folk, close to the people, and it can even be said that Meishan cuisine is the folk itself.

Although Meishan cuisine is the same as Chengdu and Leshan cuisine, it belongs to Shanghe to Sichuan cuisine, but the flavor is different.According to the understanding of Jingfajin, there are many people in Chengdu due to the five lakes and four seas. After the dishes are reconciled by the five flavors, the impact of the taste will be softer.The spicy taste of Meishan vegetables is slightly heavier than the spicy taste of Chengdu cuisine, and it is even more sweet than Leshan cuisine.But compared to Xiahe Gangcai represented by Chongqing and Dazhou cuisine, the taste of Meishan cuisine is much lighter.

The Sichuan people often say that kimchi is the root of Sichuan cuisine, and Douban is the soul of Sichuan cuisine.Meishan people fry back the pot of pot meat and roasted fish, and they are inseparable from the stuff of kimchi jar.

It is rumored that Su Dongpo’s mother, Cheng, and his wife, Wang Fu, are masters of kimchi.

Today, more than nine hundred years later, Meishan China Kimchi Museum displays all kinds of kimchi jars since ancient times.Here, Su Dongpo’s seven -character poem "The second rhyme is being raised for a long drought" is often mentioned by the interpreter.The "popcorn" is a porcelain utensil for storage or storage of pickled vegetables.He can’t do without kimchi.

On August 22, 2022, Kimchi Plaza, Meishan City, Sichuan Province.Beijing News reporter Zheng Xinqiang

The bitterness is sweet and sour, and it is the five flavors of kimchi.

Most of the Northern Song Dynasty, the above five flavors, Su Dongpo also taught enough in his life.In order to commemorate Su Dongpo, later generations referred to the noodles produced by Meishan as "Dongpo Kimchi".

He Yanping, the non -genetic inheritor of "Dongpo Kimchi" production skills, grew up in Chadian Village, Songjiang Town, Meishan.Mother Li Chunxiang is a tailor. Because of the nicknames, the neighbors of the neighborhood often come to the door to ask for some old mothers in the Tuotao Tanzi in the family to be "attractive."The original mother’s water was adjusted by the grandmother of Li Chunxiang more than 120 years ago.

As soon as the time was long, Li Chunxiang simply sold bulk kimchi in the village.When helping his mother to get off, He Yanping was only in his early age.At that time, he didn’t understand the principle of kimchi. He only knew that the villagers said that "Qiao daughter -in -law has a pair of kimchi hands." Some elders’ dowry is kimchi jar.

At more than 11 am on August 22, in the Chinese kimchi city in Meishan, the old maternal water ancient method of the old maternal water ancient method of He Yanping, two workers stepped on the mobile ladder, and they were salvaging mountain peppers. The sour taste was not far away.The wind turmoil stirred and spread from the mouth of the altar.

The ceiling is close to the thermal cotton, and the windows on the north and south of the east to west are opened. The wind pours from all sides, blowing more than 1,500 1.65 meters high of Tao Tao jar.

There is a "bubble record card" hanging on the body of each jar to show raw materials and time to enter the altar.Bean beans are generally soaked for more than three months, and green vegetables can be used for sauerkraut fish for eight or nine months. Radish soaked can be used as an old radish duck soup for two years.

The best selling is "living kimchi". The salt flavor is light and the taste is crispy. It is suitable for cleaning.Because it is only necessary to enter the cylinder for about a day, Sichuan people are also known as "bath kimchi" or "diving kimchi".

In Meishan, known as the "Township of Chinese Kimchi", almost every household has kimchi jar.

Twenty -eight years ago, in order to read the two daughters, the glossy heart of the peasant beam in Duoyue Town, Meishan no longer rushed to the 6 acres of farmland at home, began to sell it homemade, and then bought 5 slurry jar to make a trick.Pickle.

The ravioli is made all year round, and the kimchi sequences.

Kimchi water is the well water in the backyard, and the kimchi salt is the iodine -free well salt of Leshan Wuyun.He has never been added in star anise, cinnamon, fragrant leaves and other spices, "to ensure the original taste."

The word of mouth is getting farther and farther, and there are more and more jars.Douban, sea pepper, ginger, green vegetables, and millet are spicy, all things can be soaked.In good business, you can sell 20,000 or 30 pounds of pepper.Liangjia Xiaocao’s two -Jingzhong sea peppers are spicy and sweet, and they provide more than ten restaurants in Meishan all year round.

The bumpy inner wall of the bust of the stone pulp can make lactic acid bacteria better, but at the same time, it also pokes the Liang Guangse’s fingernails.The nails of the middle finger, ring finger and little finger of the right hand are black, which is the result of repeated falls off when the nail cap is repeatedly falling off.Every time I touch the sea pepper, Liang Guangze will soak his hands in cold water to cool down, "it is uncomfortable."

It is this pair of "ugly hands" that have been stabbed by the inner wall of the stone slurry altar, the sea pepper water burned, and the hot scalded "ugly hand", pulling the two daughters to pull adults.

Liang Guangze took out a handful of his self -reserved sea pepper from the old house.Beijing News reporter Wu Pinye

When she was young, Liang Zaiwen, the younger daughter, liked to lie down beside the jar of large and small, and listened to the murmur inside with a sharp ears.

The freshness of the opening of the altar is always worth looking forward to.She always watched the first bite of eating and fishing, and she was born in her mouth.The dry radish and the bubbles are her favorite. She bites crispy and refreshing appetizers.

From an early age, after Liang Zaiwen got married, he also established his own portal and husband to handle kimchi and ravioli business.However, Liang Zaiwen always felt that her father’s kimchi was like God’s help, and she couldn’t catch up.

Three years ago, Liang Guangze stopped the small kimchi workshop hard and focused on taking care of the shop in the town.The prices of sea peppers have risen fiercely, and they are expensive. They are unwilling to smell salt.

The old house in the township is still scattered more than 100 idle jars.No one wants, he is reluctant to throw it.The old couple left a few small altars soaked Douban, two two vintage and small ginger. Although the business was not done, the three meals could not be broken.

The eldest daughter likes to eat watercress water and mix white rice.For many years, every time she returns home, Liang Guangze will install some soaked Douban for her back to school.In this way, the soaked Douban was brown -red oil, carried nostalgic nostalgia, and accompanied her to a foreign country after another.Open a spoonful, camphor trees, parents and little girls in the backyard seem to be around.

"Wash the dribble, less water, the firewood flames can’t afford"

Su Dongpo has also visited one after another.In the eighth year of Xining, in Mizhou, Shandong, he dreamed that he had died for ten years.

The young couple couldn’t wait for the old.Wang Fu was buried in Meishan in his hometown, and the grave looked at Su Dongpo far away."Thousands of lonely graves, there is nowhere to talk about desolate."

In today’s Meishan folk, many people are Wang Fu, who knows "Jiangchengzi · Remembering Dreams".In the eyes of Meishan local chefs, Wang Fu is not only Su Dongpo’s wife, but also a master of cooking. He is the research and development of Dongpo elbow.

It is rumored that when Su Dongpo’s wife, Wang Fu, who was stewed in the elbow at home, accidentally stewed his elbow to cover up. In order to cover up the smell, she scraped the burnt area and then added the seasoning to continue stewing.I did not expect that the taste was particularly good.Dongpo elbow has been passed on.

The elbow is called "髈" in Sichuan dialect.No feast.

As far as the local chefs in Meng Meishan, when you step into this line, you must first learn Dongpo elbow.Whether it is rural or in the city, marriage and funeral, red and white happy events, Dongpo elbow must be retained programs.When the business is the best, more than 300 Dongpo elbows can be sold in the Sansu Temple in Dongpo, Meizhou.

On August 25, 2022, Dongpo elbow came out of the Dongpo kitchen in Meizhou Dongpo kitchen.Beijing News reporter Wu Pinye

At the age of 15, the first hard dish of the "Dongpo elbow" production skills Wu Changqing’s first hard dish is also Dongpo elbow.Fresh elbow epidermis needs to be burnt to stimulate glue decomposition.The noodles and dandruff should be scraped clean, and the blood should also go in place to prevent the soup from dirty.

It is the key to cooking the elbow to master the heat. The milky white of the fire is not analyzed. The fire is too large and it is easy to roll the elbow skin.Small and small fires are the most suitable.

Stew for 2 to 3 hours, and the milk white soup came out, indicating that the fat of the elbow was stewed into the soup.For example, the hoof flower that Chengdu people love to eat can be broken up.

Sichuan people have a long history.Over the years, pork has always been the main source of meat for Sichuan people.Right now, Sichuan is still a famous pig province in the country.Wu Changqing likes to use black hair pigs. The growth cycle is long, the meat is tight, and the taste is fragrant.

In the eyes of the 43 -year -old kitchen master, the authentic Dongpo elbow should be dipped with ginger juice dipped, and there are vinegar, salt, and ginger minced, which can remove the smell of greasy smell.Today, Meishan Family often likes to add douban sauce, sea pepper, and ginger. The spicy and salty taste of the elbows made is more prominent.

A reporter once asked Wu Changqing to ask Dongpo’s elbow tips. He answered that in "Pork Song", Su Dongpo has clearly written the characteristics of pork, that is, "cleaning the dribble, less water, and cigarette cigarettes.The flames can’t afford. When he is familiar, he can’t urge him, he is beautiful when he is in the fire. "Dongpo meat and Dongpo elbow are made of pork, and the cooking method is connected.

Inherit the old flavor

The most proud of Wu Changqing is that he has many Sichuan cuisine disciples.

In 1997, Wu Changqing returned to Meishan, who had been out of Meishan for 19 years.In 5 years, more than 1,000 students have been trained.Many younger generations are still commensurate with his apprentices.

Some students later went abroad to be chefs, and often called from Britain, Germany and other places in the middle of the night to ask him for the specific practice of some dishes.Once, a student complained to him that there were only spicy persimmon pepper, no numb peppercorns, and as a result, the Mapo tofu made was neither numb nor spicy.But foreign guests still like to eat, which made him cry and laugh.

Wu Changqing occasionally cooks a few Sichuan cuisine that he thinks that he is about to disappear, such as chicken beanflower, snowflake chicken, glass squid, Wufu balls, etc. Now rarely appear on the restaurant menu.There are fewer and fewer people. "

Peng Zhengzheng, a native of Xiuwen Town, Dongpo District, became the first apprentice of Wu Changqing’s Kitchen School when he was 16 years old.His father is a township chef, and hopes that his son will do this in the future."Regardless of the money, the belly must be rounded." The chef can eat and eat, and has a sense of security.

On August 25, 2022, in Meishan City, Sichuan Province, the Chief Kitchen Guan Peng regime in Dongpo, Dongpo, Meizhou was in a restaurant kitchen.Beijing News reporter Wu Pinye

Three months when Master Qi Changqing, Master Wu Changqing, Peng Zhengzheng felt that the carving was the most difficult. He lacked painting skills. Sometimes his heart was irritable and his hands would be unstable.The process of practicing the pan is also the process of exercising armor, wrist strength and mental strength.After accumulation, the left -handed fingerprint joints of the end pot are raised high, and redness and swelling have deformed.

Twenty -three years ago, Peng Zhengquan found a chef’s apprentice in a restaurant called Dongpo, Beijing, in Beijing. The big boss, the little boss and the master were all from Meishan.The restaurant focuses on the folk Sichuan flavor that integrates Dongpo culture.Today, Peng Zhengzhi has grown into a chief chef in the East Po, Meizhou.

The inheritance did not stop.Dongpo tastes behind them and in front of them.

For many Meishan people, Ma Wangzi is an old shop that has continued to patronize and eats from generation to generation.

Before 1999, the founder of Malwoko chose to support a stall under a yellow -horned tree to maintain his livelihood by selling bloodwws. Because it was near Yongshou Town Water Wharf, the hard work such as the husband and the challenge became the firstDiners.In 2008, Ma Longxi, who was 24 years old, took his father’s class and became the fourth -generation inheritor.

The charm of the old name is the long flow of water."I see the economy of the economy a little bit. I don’t care how much money to make. It values 10 or 20 years later, and the old name is still absent." This is the way of inheritance of Malone’s inheritance from Grandpa.

Her father also repeatedly told her to soak in the kitchen and listen to the chef’s voice.If he has not been soaked in the kitchen for many years, Su Dongpo’s writing method of writing cooking is also a talker on paper.

"Soaking" in the kitchen is much more. Ma Longxi realized that Sichuan cuisine is a people’s dish, who is good at seasoning, seasoning, tolerance, and affinity.

In recent years, the local cuisine of Meishan has been impacted by some fusion dishes.However, Ma Longxi and his father always felt that only the time of grounding, close to the people, and simple family flavors can stand the test of time. Instead, they cannot be engaged in the trend, but they should stick to it.

There are often sighs from foreign diners that many dishes in this old -fashioned shop are not spicy."Sichuan cuisine’s 24 -flavored type, spicy spicy accounts for at least 30 %." Malone thinks that Sichuan cuisine is only spicy, which is a shallow cognition.Let more diners in Tiannan to know more about Sichuan cuisine flavor, and gradually become this old shop wants to pass on.

"The inheritance is not the old, and the innovation will not forget." In the past ten years, there are more than 200 dishes developed by Jingfa Jinjing, but after the market and time inspection, only dozens of them have been left.Meishan catering is not large, it seems to be calm, but in fact, the undercurrent is surging."The competition is fierce." There are no local old ladies who have talmented their mouths. They love to eat and eat.

"As long as you are delicious, don’t be afraid of spending money." From the perspective of Jing Fajin, after the 2008 earthquake, the open -minded and hearty Meishan people knew how to enjoy time in time.Like the fellow Su Dongpo, "Just play with it, eat it."

Beijing News reporter Wu Pinye Photography Zheng Xinqian Editor Chen Xiaoshu School paid Jia Ning

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